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Native Trails Copper Canyons Information Source

In an effort to let our guests to get the most of their Copper Canyons adventure, Native Trails has compiled the following. Included is information about the region and its people along with, of course, train material. We hope this material helps you get to know the area and enjoy it that much more.

The Land of the Canyons
Relatively young, geologically speaking, the Copper Canyons volcanic origins began in the mid Tertiary Period about 35 million years ago. Violent upheavals of the volcanic plateaus did not allow the characteristic crest of most mountain ranges to form in this part of the Sierra Madre Occidental. Instead high plateaus rose almost vertically from the coastal plains of what is now Sinaloa to occupy the western portion of now Chihuahua. Capturing much of the moisture coming inland from the Pacific, millions of years of erosion and rivers cutting deep along rifts helped create this spectacular collection of canyons, the largest canyon system in the world. This is the rugged beauty of the Copper Canyons.
With rim elevations near 2180 meters (7200 ft.), various species of pine and oak trees dominate the landscape. The Sierras have there own seasons here, with many of the oaks losing their leaves in March, the dry season. A striking display of wild flowers, with bloom peaking in August occurs not in the Spring but rather during the rainy season, from July through late September. Winter in these high elevations can be cold with snow sometimes in the highest elevations.
In contrast, the canyon floors, at more than 1800 meters (5450 ft.) below are from desert to sub-tropical in nature. Descending the canyons places the visitor through a variety of life zones with different vegetation and climate along with over 290 migratory and indigenous bird species. The climate on the bottom ranges from mild and comfortable during the winter months to hot and humid in the summer. Here among the thorny bushes and cactus you can find mango and papaya trees abundant along with orange, lemon, avocado and much more.

The People of the Canyons
For generations, long before the Conquistadors and the Missionaries, a proud and noble culture thrived in the Sierras and nearby plains. The Rarámuri (means "runners" or "those who walk well") as they call themselves more commonly known as Tarahumara, developed a culture that stresses respect and concern for others. A culture and way of life which is much as it was for their fathers and before.
These shy and recluse people number approximately 50,000 and populate much of the region of the Copper Canyons (Barrancas del Cobre) also known as the Sierra Tarahumara. One of their most noted customs is the traditional foot race. Competition between villages in the form of races, kicking a wooden ball that can not be touched by the racer's hands, sometimes would last for two or three days. This stamina and endurance is not just for the men.
The women also have a race tossing a woven ring with a stick. Although not as long they also care for the children and manage the home. Many are skilled basket weavers among other simple crafts and sell their wares to supplement the family's meager income. With many families relying on dry framing the canyon slopes for their beans, corn and squash, anything helps.
Later inhabitants to the area were the Spanish. Many came in search of silver and gold, and found it here in the canyons. Others came in search of souls to convert to Christianity and found that here also.
Over the years, racial intermixing took place and the Mestizo (Spanish and Indian) became a growing group of the region. Though more often mestizos follow the ways of the Mexican culture versus that of the Rarámuri, many continue to wear traditional Indian foot ware. Though compatible with each other, the mestizo and Rarámuri (Tarahumara) mostly live segregated form one another, yet in some areas deep in the mountains, mestizo and Rarámuri ranchitos can be seen side by side. Many non-indians are involved in farming but most area residents work in the mining, forestry and tourism industries.
This contrast in the land and the blending of people and cultures help make the Copper Canyons, these the Barrancas del Cobre, a unique and interesting region. Combined with the beauty of the area makes it incredible.

The Train
A dream, to create a train route from Kansas City to the Pacific, 400 miles shorter than what was available at the time to the Pacific at San Francisco Bay. The target, Topolobampo, third deepest natural harbor in the world, a very logical place to make it all happen. The only obstacle was a part of the Sierra Madre Occidental we now know as the Sierra Tarahumara and the Copper Canyons.
In 1872, American Albert K. Owen began raising interest in his grand vision. Finally with the help of people (and their money) like Enrique Creel, Ulysses S. Grant, Porfirio Diaz and others, the project was started in 1898. By 1907 the construction reached from Ojinaga, across the border from Presidio, TX, to what is now the town of Creel. Fifty-four years later and only after the Mexican Government became involved did the dream become a reality.
Actually construction had come to a stand still from 1908 to 1941 due to a number of reasons, a revolution and two world wars among them. It was not until World War II that the government took on this major task. For twenty years it would take all the most contemporary engineering knowledge to hurdle the last 120 miles with its 7,000 foot elevation drop from the Sierras to the coastal plains of Sinaloa. Some 37 principle bridges and 86 tunnels later came one of the 20th Centuries most noted railroad engineering marvels, the Chihuahua al Pacifico. Some engineering highlights are a bridge (km 638) that carries the train from the mouth of a long tunnel over the La Laja Canyon, 200 feet above the bottom or the switchbacks near Temoris (km 708) where the train follows a 180 degree turn while in a tunnel. Speaking of turns, don't miss the Lazo (km 585), a 360 degree turn using bridges and tunnels where you actually cross over where you've been.
In 1998 the railroad was privatized and is now owned by an investment consortium Grupo Mexicano under the name FerroMex (Ferrocarriles Mexicano). Although mostly used for cargo, the railroad is still a favorite among tourist and area residents alike, as a means of travel through the Sierras from Chihuahua to the Pacific.

Native Trails Travel Notes

The Route (described east to west)

Chihuahua means dry sandy zone in the language of the Tarahumara Indians, who reside in the Sierras. Founded in 1709, beautiful examples of Colonial architecture can still be enjoyed. Among them, the Governor's Palace. Or the Cathedral and many more worth seeing sights await you in Chihuahua, including the Museum of the Revolution, formally Pancho Villa's house. Here his widow, Doña Luz Corral de Villa, resided until her death in 1981. This metropolitan area of Chihuahua along with Los Mochis in the west serve as gateways to the Copper Canyons for many visitors.
About 100 km. west of Chihuahua we come upon Cuauhtemoc. This agricultural center serves as home for a large population of Mennonites. Under religious persecution, these people fled their German homeland via Russia and Canada. In 1921 the President of Mexico, Álvaro Obregon, offered them a refuge and religious freedom. The Mennonite still converse among each other in Platt Deutsche or low German. Their strong work ethic has developed this area into a major agricultural region.
Further West about another 150 km. is found the great fall of Basaseachi. This word in Tarahumara means "place of coyotes", and symbolizes the twentieth tallest waterfall in the World and at 806 feet the tallest year-round waterfall in Mexico. Though not conveniently close to the main Canyons route, the trip here during the rainy season is worth the effort. (Note there was a recent discovery of a seasonal waterfall near Piedra Volada in the same canyon. This waterfall flows only during the rainy season, with a height of over 1000 feet now makes Basaseachi the second tallest overall waterfall in Mexico)
Back on the tracks, high in the Sierra we find the town of Creel. Established as a logging town when the rails at one time ended here, Creel has developed into a busy tourism location. Many unique Indian crafts can be found in Creel, especially in the Tarahumara Mission Store. The profits of this store help operate the children's hospital for Indians of the area. Overnight accommodations abound here but during holidays vacancy is hard to find.
Beyond Creel lie the Copper Canyons System (Las Barrancas del Cobre). Though gold and silver have been mined here, copper is not a mineral readily found here. The name Copper Canyons may have came more from the color the rocks take on because of the mossy growth on their surface giving a tarnished copper green. The Canyon Batopilas is accessible by road from Creel. Or continuing by train to the canyons formed by the Urique River, the Barranca de Cobre and the Barranca Urique. Depending on which source is used, the Canyons system is made up of five to seven major canyons and hundreds of minor canyons.
The Batopilas Canyon (Barranca Batopilas), settled as a result of silver ore finds, lies at the end of 80 miles of scenic yet rugged road. The town of Batopilas, established around 1880, actually had of the second electric generators in Mexico behind Mexico City. This the result of one of Mexico's most productive silver mines, developed by Alexander Shepherd, an American, who reinvested much of the mines profits back into the area. Now the legacy of this boom time lie in ruins. An exception to this is the restored hacienda in the middle of town, the Riverside Lodge and the hacienda Rio Batopilas on the road into town. These haciendas turned hotels reflects the glory of Batopila's past.
The Copper Canyon (Barranca del Cobre), whose name is used generically to describe this area and the Urique Canyon (Barranca Urique) are found on the Urique River. The deepest of these canyons is the Barranca Urique and at about 5700 feet below the rim you find the town of Urique, the Municipio or "County Seat" of this area. All legal matters from Divisadero to Temoris, must be handled in Urique. The climate offers sub-tropical delights such as mangos, papaya and citrus fruits. Much different from the pines and oaks that grow at the alpine environs of the rim, several life zones up the canyon walls.
Near the western end of the Chihuahua al Pacifico rail line, lies the town of El Fuerte. This small city with colonial center, once the hub of Spanish mining activity in this area, now attracts sports fishermen and hunters but mostly visitors to the Copper Canyons that use El Fuerte as a gateway. Stroll around the colonial plaza and other period buildings in this quiet town.
About 45 miles southwest of El Fuerte our journey reaches the end of the line, near the Sea of Cortez. The City of Los Mochis offers access to the harbor at Topolobampo, great seafood, boating and conveniences such as banking and communication services. The airport facilities allows for easy access to the US or the inviting beaches of Baja California Sur with easy access via ferry from Topolobampo to La Paz.

Beyond the Canyons

From the rugged desert and mountains to the lush oasis of San Ignacio and Mulege, Baja California is a land of great contrast. With the Pacific Ocean on one side of the peninsula and the Sea of Cortez on the other, Baja has hundreds of kilometers of sandy beaches and wave sculptured coast lines beckoning weary travelers.
These characteristics, along with the peninsula's isolation have contributed to the uniqueness and attraction of this region. La Paz, Baja Sur's capital, holds a charm that makes a visit there relaxing and pleasurable, quiet compared to the lively non-stop action of Cabo San Lucas with its many clubs and tourist spots (with tourist prices). Further north lies the undiscovered tranquillity of Loreto, Baja's first settlement and capital.
Also located on the gulf side, this small village is the quit essential of the "Mexican fishing village" with its calm turquoise sea and tranquil surroundings. If you have the time, go a little further north to the oasis towns of Mulege and San Ignacio. Surround yourself among hundreds of date palm trees as you enjoy the coolness of an occasional breeze. Both villages feature lovely missions.

Things You Should Know about the Copper Canyons

Although the area is one of the most enjoyable you can visit as a traveler, it is important to keep in mind that it is definitely rustic. Hotels are comfortable but not deluxe. Food in international but more home-made style. The mountains are rugged and insects and reptiles may be found. Driving during tours is slow and may be dusty or muddy. In higher elevation it may turn a little cold during the winter months. Delays of trains happen several times and the train cars may not be spotless, however, seating is comfortable and nice. We are sure you can handle these situations, but we are more concerned about your expectations. We believe that the experience is truly worthwhile and that you will enjoy the scenery and people of this unique region.

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